It is important to this team to thank Heather McNutt for leading us throughout the trip. The Twum’s spent considerable amounts of time and energy helping and guiding us, in fact, their whole family was there for us -- especially Rita, we couldn’t have done it without Rita. But throughout it all, Heather was the accountant … the tour guide … the schedule keeper … the planner … the question answerer … and the lead chaperone. She kept us up to date on the ever-changing schedule, led us in the devotional discussions, organized the wake-up calls, and was bright and chipper the entire time. She allowed the kids to be focused only on, and totally involved in, the parts they should be, and not be concerned with the rest of the details. Thanks to her efforts, things went smoothly even when they didn’t go smoothly. We are all grateful to her for making this the trip of a lifetime for us. Home soon,
Randy
Monday, July 27, 2009
Sunday, July 26, 2009
Home soon ...
The Ghana'09 team has finished their Penny Project related efforts in Kumasi, Ghana. Today, they said their difficult goodbyes to so many they have met during this trip. Tomorrow, very early (4:00am), they will leave their hotel and travel to visit the Cape Coast Castle as they make their way back toward Accra, and their trip home. Earlier this month, President Obama toured the Cape Coast seaside fortress that the British used as slave dungeons during the 17th century. You may have seen it on national news programs. After spending Monday night in their hotel in Accra, the team will begin the long trip back to Birmingham, arriving at the First Church parking lot close to 11pm Tuesday night. Prayers for their safe trip home are more than welcomed.
Their final blog entry from Africa follows here from Mallory Hinz.
Their final blog entry from Africa follows here from Mallory Hinz.
Our final day ...
First of all, this is by far the hardest day to write an entry for our blog. I will try to somehow do today justice in writing, but I know I will not be able to fit everything in, so you will need to ask us all about it once we get home.
This morning, after waking up and eating the usual breakfast (toast with jam, and a mixed concoction of coffee packets and Malta powder), we drove down the now familiar dirt road to the King Jesus Orphanage. We arrived for worship at the church behind the orphanage, and as we drove around back, we saw many of the kids running after our bus. All of them in their Sunday best, dresses and shirts made by the First United Women’s fashion shop. We took our seats and instantly each of us “bruni” (which means “White” in Twi-the language spoken here) had kids piled up on our laps, or holding hands as they quietly sat next to us. The service was lovely. Pastor Kofi continues to tell us he wants to put siding on the church, but we all loved the breeze and the view of Kumasi cities from behind the pulpit. We are now used to being dragged up to dance in the middle of service and clapping along to the songs. We even dance up to the front to drop our offering in the bucket.
We headed back to the hotel for a quick lunch and then it was back to the orphanage for our final time with them this trip. We handed out chocolate to all the kids, which they loved, and I don’t think any of it lasted more than five minutes. It was a wonderful time visiting, filled with yet another short game of “futbol” with the older kids, dancing with some of the younger kids, and tons and tons of pictures. Many of us wrote letters and printed out pictures, or made bracelets for kids who all lit up when we handed them out.
Leaving them today was one of the hardest things I have ever had to do.
I’ve learned so much from these kids over the last two weeks. So much about myself. And so much about the world and our perspectives. As I stood there hugging the three little girls who never left my side throughout my time at the orphanage, I couldn’t help but cry. My new friendships with these girls and the other older kids there mean the world to me now. I can’t say I’ve ever met anyone as genuinely kind and loving as the children at King Jesus. After hugging the younger children, I said my goodbyes to the older boys and yet again I was reminded how much we can learn from children. They all questioned why we were crying and we explained how sad we were to leave because we didn’t know if we would ever see them again. I couldn’t understand why they were all so calm when we were so upset. “God will lead you back here someday,” they all kept telling us. “This isn’t really goodbye.”
The bus ride home, normally filled with laughter and stories about different kids was especially silent today, with the exception of a few sniffles here and there. We are so grateful to these kids for all they have taught us. Each of them has a special place in our hearts. And as Pastor Kofi said in his sermon in church this morning, “we will always be together and meet again someday, if not physically then in heaven.”
We are having a wonderful time here in Ghana and cannot wait to share all our stories with you all when we return home. Thank you to everyone who has supported The Penny Project and our trip here.
Peace and Love.
Mallory
This morning, after waking up and eating the usual breakfast (toast with jam, and a mixed concoction of coffee packets and Malta powder), we drove down the now familiar dirt road to the King Jesus Orphanage. We arrived for worship at the church behind the orphanage, and as we drove around back, we saw many of the kids running after our bus. All of them in their Sunday best, dresses and shirts made by the First United Women’s fashion shop. We took our seats and instantly each of us “bruni” (which means “White” in Twi-the language spoken here) had kids piled up on our laps, or holding hands as they quietly sat next to us. The service was lovely. Pastor Kofi continues to tell us he wants to put siding on the church, but we all loved the breeze and the view of Kumasi cities from behind the pulpit. We are now used to being dragged up to dance in the middle of service and clapping along to the songs. We even dance up to the front to drop our offering in the bucket.
We headed back to the hotel for a quick lunch and then it was back to the orphanage for our final time with them this trip. We handed out chocolate to all the kids, which they loved, and I don’t think any of it lasted more than five minutes. It was a wonderful time visiting, filled with yet another short game of “futbol” with the older kids, dancing with some of the younger kids, and tons and tons of pictures. Many of us wrote letters and printed out pictures, or made bracelets for kids who all lit up when we handed them out.
Leaving them today was one of the hardest things I have ever had to do.
I’ve learned so much from these kids over the last two weeks. So much about myself. And so much about the world and our perspectives. As I stood there hugging the three little girls who never left my side throughout my time at the orphanage, I couldn’t help but cry. My new friendships with these girls and the other older kids there mean the world to me now. I can’t say I’ve ever met anyone as genuinely kind and loving as the children at King Jesus. After hugging the younger children, I said my goodbyes to the older boys and yet again I was reminded how much we can learn from children. They all questioned why we were crying and we explained how sad we were to leave because we didn’t know if we would ever see them again. I couldn’t understand why they were all so calm when we were so upset. “God will lead you back here someday,” they all kept telling us. “This isn’t really goodbye.”
The bus ride home, normally filled with laughter and stories about different kids was especially silent today, with the exception of a few sniffles here and there. We are so grateful to these kids for all they have taught us. Each of them has a special place in our hearts. And as Pastor Kofi said in his sermon in church this morning, “we will always be together and meet again someday, if not physically then in heaven.”
We are having a wonderful time here in Ghana and cannot wait to share all our stories with you all when we return home. Thank you to everyone who has supported The Penny Project and our trip here.
Peace and Love.
Mallory
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Work and fun. An update ...
During our first visit to the orphanage, Pastor Koifi gave us a tour, and along the way mentioned specifically some of the things that the orphanage needed. Last night at devotionals, the youth decided to spend money on bunk beds, mattresses, and mosquito netting. So today was a shopping trip for those items. Several locals that specialize in hair weaving came to the hotel, so the group divided up between hair weaving and bunk bed shopping. After some delays, and some adventure, we got it all accomplished.
We had our first real rainstorm since being here. It was about half an hour of torrential downpour, no wind just rain. The water poured downhill everywhere. Those 8”x 2’ deep sewers were raging rivers. There are frequent cement covers over the sewer to allow vehicles to cross over them. There were roostertails at the edges as the water gushed. Then it was quickly all over. It didn’t rain at the hotel so only the bunk bed shoppers got to experience it.
The bunk beds have to be made to order, but an order is being placed. We were able to deliver the mattresses and the mosquito netting to the King Jesus Orphanage in the late afternoon. Several of us have now received personal letters written by the children. They are of course quite moving and funny at the same time. Mine also has a drawing, and all the key elements are labeled, allowing Isaac to show off his spelling to me. Quite touching. I’m sure I’ll tear up a bit when we say goodbye.
The digital cameras are a huge hit with all the kids. “Flash, flash. Camera. Me” Then we have to turn the camera around to show off the picture, much to the delight and laughter of the children. The older ones are just as concerned about getting a picture of themselves, but more reserved when observing the results, and very polite and articulate about saying thank you for it.
Tomorrow we go to Pastor Kaofi’s service, then spend much of the day at the orphanage. We will be singing and Ann will be reading the bible scripture. We have printed many pictures of ourselves with the kids, and put together a scrapbook for the kids to keep. We have some more crafts, and some chocolate (including an extra $20 worth courtesy of the Airline Stewardess, see prior blog). I should have mentioned this earlier in the blog, but all Ghanaians speak English. Twi is the native language here in Kumasi and the south, and there are other native languages up in the north, we are told. But everyone speaks English, some better than others, but basic communication is not too difficult. They teach English exclusively in all the schools, public and private. Both reading and writing is all English, while Twi writing does not seem to be taught. Boats told me that he learned it at his University.
More tomorrow,
Randy
We had our first real rainstorm since being here. It was about half an hour of torrential downpour, no wind just rain. The water poured downhill everywhere. Those 8”x 2’ deep sewers were raging rivers. There are frequent cement covers over the sewer to allow vehicles to cross over them. There were roostertails at the edges as the water gushed. Then it was quickly all over. It didn’t rain at the hotel so only the bunk bed shoppers got to experience it.
The bunk beds have to be made to order, but an order is being placed. We were able to deliver the mattresses and the mosquito netting to the King Jesus Orphanage in the late afternoon. Several of us have now received personal letters written by the children. They are of course quite moving and funny at the same time. Mine also has a drawing, and all the key elements are labeled, allowing Isaac to show off his spelling to me. Quite touching. I’m sure I’ll tear up a bit when we say goodbye.
The digital cameras are a huge hit with all the kids. “Flash, flash. Camera. Me” Then we have to turn the camera around to show off the picture, much to the delight and laughter of the children. The older ones are just as concerned about getting a picture of themselves, but more reserved when observing the results, and very polite and articulate about saying thank you for it.
Tomorrow we go to Pastor Kaofi’s service, then spend much of the day at the orphanage. We will be singing and Ann will be reading the bible scripture. We have printed many pictures of ourselves with the kids, and put together a scrapbook for the kids to keep. We have some more crafts, and some chocolate (including an extra $20 worth courtesy of the Airline Stewardess, see prior blog). I should have mentioned this earlier in the blog, but all Ghanaians speak English. Twi is the native language here in Kumasi and the south, and there are other native languages up in the north, we are told. But everyone speaks English, some better than others, but basic communication is not too difficult. They teach English exclusively in all the schools, public and private. Both reading and writing is all English, while Twi writing does not seem to be taught. Boats told me that he learned it at his University.
More tomorrow,
Randy
Friday, July 24, 2009
What is FuFu?
Fufu (Foo-foo, Foufou, Foutou, fu fu) is to Western and Central Africa cooking what mashed potatoes are to traditional European-American cooking. There are Fufu-like staples all over Sub-Saharan Africa: i.e., Eastern Africa's Ugali and Southern Africa's Sadza (which are usually made from ground corn (maize), though West Africans use maize to make Banku and Kenkey, and sometimes use maize to make Fufu). Fufu is a starchy accompaniment for stews or other dishes with sauce. To eat fufu: use your right hand to tear off a bite-sized piece of the fufu, shape it into a ball, make an indentation in it, and use it to scoop up the soup or stew or sauce, or whatever you're eating. Rock on, Mr. Hinz!
A tired team ...
Today we left our hotel at 6am to go to Kintampo Waterfalls. We were all very tired but excited to go see the waterfalls. We went to go pick up the Twum family -- they are all so nice and welcoming to the group. We left for our 3 ½ hour journey to the falls. Most of us slept for the beginning part of the trip, and then we started making friendship bracelets. The waterfalls were so pretty and it was a nice way to regroup and relax a little. This is one of the only places in Ghana were it is quiet and tranquil. We ate lunch at a rest stop and Mr. Hinz was the only brave soul to try the Fufu. After a long day we were fortunate enough to come home to a big plate of french fries for dinner!
More tomorrow,
Jessica, Emily and Devin
More tomorrow,
Jessica, Emily and Devin
Thursday, July 23, 2009
A note to the parents at home from Randy...
Parents, your kids are great!
I know that you already know that, but I think it should be said out loud on this blog. They have been the best to be around, and without fail they have each or collectively stepped up when needed or asked to.
For example, Brennan presenting to the Methodist Bishop Elect of all Ghana … Jessica presenting to the Ankaase Hospital … Mallory and Emily delivering a sermon … Megan, Ann, Lindsay saying the prayers at devotionals and dinners … Colin presenting to the Methodist School And all of them dancing with and in front of the school kids, singing their favorite, “We Are Marching In the Light of God” in church (some first learning and then singing),. Devin knowing more choir songs and words than the girls when the group is singing on the bus. Matt presenting chalk and pencils to the other Methodist school kids.
For us as chaperones, they have been a delight to be around. Blogging, obviously. Making decisions on how to present, asking questions about how we are spending money on the orphanage, making mature decisions, involved in all the shopping process details. We have heard the next day that several of them were staying up late talking about the next big plan for The Penny Project. Hearing them talk about what insights they are getting, and about why this project is so important to them.
And of course, they’re funny. They talk over each other in waves, and are constantly saying witty things back and forth. Several discussions go on at the same time. And enthusiasm abounds, for every event, for life.
So, the boys in the back of the bus becomes the “man-cave”, they love the bargaining in the market stalls and tell stories, they all get Junior Twum to try fruit leather and wait in silence as he takes a bite. Which ones have bigger rooms and better television, which ones have better snacks, just being kids, but at the same time being adults. No drama, no tension and, knock on wood, no upset stomachs. We find ourselves listening to one school’s version of a talent show, and they each listen attentively and clap actively, things like their first Pierce Elementary talent show, and not one complaint or snappy criticism. They have each personally “adopted” at least one child from the orphanage. We did go shopping for ourselves some parts of yesterday and today. The kids had a riot, they were not intimidated by the busy, small markets or the minor hassling of the vendors. Don’t worry, the Twum family was with us at every moment, at least one per group. Some were better at the bargaining (always start with half of what they say it costs) and ate it up, the others used Boat or Jayzee or the Reverend to get the price down. We stopped by the orphanage briefly again today with more supplies, and it is difficult for us to leave after only 20 minutes.
Please know, your kids are great…
Randy
I know that you already know that, but I think it should be said out loud on this blog. They have been the best to be around, and without fail they have each or collectively stepped up when needed or asked to.
For example, Brennan presenting to the Methodist Bishop Elect of all Ghana … Jessica presenting to the Ankaase Hospital … Mallory and Emily delivering a sermon … Megan, Ann, Lindsay saying the prayers at devotionals and dinners … Colin presenting to the Methodist School And all of them dancing with and in front of the school kids, singing their favorite, “We Are Marching In the Light of God” in church (some first learning and then singing),. Devin knowing more choir songs and words than the girls when the group is singing on the bus. Matt presenting chalk and pencils to the other Methodist school kids.
For us as chaperones, they have been a delight to be around. Blogging, obviously. Making decisions on how to present, asking questions about how we are spending money on the orphanage, making mature decisions, involved in all the shopping process details. We have heard the next day that several of them were staying up late talking about the next big plan for The Penny Project. Hearing them talk about what insights they are getting, and about why this project is so important to them.
And of course, they’re funny. They talk over each other in waves, and are constantly saying witty things back and forth. Several discussions go on at the same time. And enthusiasm abounds, for every event, for life.
So, the boys in the back of the bus becomes the “man-cave”, they love the bargaining in the market stalls and tell stories, they all get Junior Twum to try fruit leather and wait in silence as he takes a bite. Which ones have bigger rooms and better television, which ones have better snacks, just being kids, but at the same time being adults. No drama, no tension and, knock on wood, no upset stomachs. We find ourselves listening to one school’s version of a talent show, and they each listen attentively and clap actively, things like their first Pierce Elementary talent show, and not one complaint or snappy criticism. They have each personally “adopted” at least one child from the orphanage. We did go shopping for ourselves some parts of yesterday and today. The kids had a riot, they were not intimidated by the busy, small markets or the minor hassling of the vendors. Don’t worry, the Twum family was with us at every moment, at least one per group. Some were better at the bargaining (always start with half of what they say it costs) and ate it up, the others used Boat or Jayzee or the Reverend to get the price down. We stopped by the orphanage briefly again today with more supplies, and it is difficult for us to leave after only 20 minutes.
Please know, your kids are great…
Randy
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
A very busy day ...
Hello family and friends …
Today, thanks to no rain, we were able to go back to the village to see the glass beads being sorted and strung. As always when we go outside there was a group of kids who followed us around. After talking to one boy’s grandpa we found out he had skipped school just to be able to see us again. When the boys told him to go back to school, he joked back telling us to go to school. We continue to be amazed at how excited some Ghanaian people are to see us and how they welcome us into their culture.
From our return visit to the bead artist, we traveled to a street market to purchase souvenirs from the vendors. It was somewhat overwhelming for us to be in the market being harassed by the vendors to buy their products. Luckily, we had Boats and the rest of the Twum family with us who watch out for us and make sure we don’t get ripped off with our sub-par bartering skills. We stopped at a hotel for lunch and then continued our journey to the Lake Bosumtwi. There we learned about the history of the lake and took a voyage on a boat. We were able to see another village on the lake, as well as the beautiful mountains and trees that reminded us of the Serengeti. We drove back to the hotel while singing some random choir camp and SNL songs, including trying to teach Boats (our guide and a good friend of the Twum’s),that famous VBS song, “Pharaoh, Pharaoh, Oh, baby, let my people go …”.
All is well. We are loving our time here and cannot believe the trip is flying by so fast.
Peace and love.
The Youth of Ghana’09
Today, thanks to no rain, we were able to go back to the village to see the glass beads being sorted and strung. As always when we go outside there was a group of kids who followed us around. After talking to one boy’s grandpa we found out he had skipped school just to be able to see us again. When the boys told him to go back to school, he joked back telling us to go to school. We continue to be amazed at how excited some Ghanaian people are to see us and how they welcome us into their culture.
From our return visit to the bead artist, we traveled to a street market to purchase souvenirs from the vendors. It was somewhat overwhelming for us to be in the market being harassed by the vendors to buy their products. Luckily, we had Boats and the rest of the Twum family with us who watch out for us and make sure we don’t get ripped off with our sub-par bartering skills. We stopped at a hotel for lunch and then continued our journey to the Lake Bosumtwi. There we learned about the history of the lake and took a voyage on a boat. We were able to see another village on the lake, as well as the beautiful mountains and trees that reminded us of the Serengeti. We drove back to the hotel while singing some random choir camp and SNL songs, including trying to teach Boats (our guide and a good friend of the Twum’s),that famous VBS song, “Pharaoh, Pharaoh, Oh, baby, let my people go …”.
All is well. We are loving our time here and cannot believe the trip is flying by so fast.
Peace and love.
The Youth of Ghana’09
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Tuesday in Kumasi ...
Hi everyone !
So far this journey has been very eventful and extremely rewarding. This morning we got to sleep in, which to Heather means 7:45, but was nice =]. We started our day by traveling to a small village where we meet a local man who makes glass beads for a living. He took us to his bamboo and grass hut where he began to show us how the beads are made. He explained how they fill a ceramic plate that has small holes in it with powder made from ground Fanta and beer bottles. To form the hole in the center of each bead, they place a small piece of a twig in each of the openings in the ceramic plate. Before he could finish his demonstration, it began to rain for the first time since we’ve been here. We tried to wait it out, but it continued to rain and we finally decided to come back another day.
Leaving there, we made our way to the King Asante’s Palace where we were lead on an educational tour. When we were done, we loaded back into the bus where we had a quick lunch on the road (which of course included fries) on our way to the cultural center. Here we had our first chance to shop for ourselves. Many of us learned how to barter and found lots of Ghanaian souvenirs. After a long two hours of negotiating, we then headed to the largest store in Kumasi, which was equivalent in size to Primo’s Pizza, where we finished up our shopping for King Jesus Orphanage. When we were finished we delivered it to Pastor Kofe, the head of the orphanage, and were able to say a quick hello to the children. Then we went back to the hotel for dinner and devotionals, where we rapped up our adventurous day. We miss everyone at home, but are having an amazing time, and getting to know so many heart warming people.
Until tomorrow,
Ann and Lindsay
So far this journey has been very eventful and extremely rewarding. This morning we got to sleep in, which to Heather means 7:45, but was nice =]. We started our day by traveling to a small village where we meet a local man who makes glass beads for a living. He took us to his bamboo and grass hut where he began to show us how the beads are made. He explained how they fill a ceramic plate that has small holes in it with powder made from ground Fanta and beer bottles. To form the hole in the center of each bead, they place a small piece of a twig in each of the openings in the ceramic plate. Before he could finish his demonstration, it began to rain for the first time since we’ve been here. We tried to wait it out, but it continued to rain and we finally decided to come back another day.
Leaving there, we made our way to the King Asante’s Palace where we were lead on an educational tour. When we were done, we loaded back into the bus where we had a quick lunch on the road (which of course included fries) on our way to the cultural center. Here we had our first chance to shop for ourselves. Many of us learned how to barter and found lots of Ghanaian souvenirs. After a long two hours of negotiating, we then headed to the largest store in Kumasi, which was equivalent in size to Primo’s Pizza, where we finished up our shopping for King Jesus Orphanage. When we were finished we delivered it to Pastor Kofe, the head of the orphanage, and were able to say a quick hello to the children. Then we went back to the hotel for dinner and devotionals, where we rapped up our adventurous day. We miss everyone at home, but are having an amazing time, and getting to know so many heart warming people.
Until tomorrow,
Ann and Lindsay
The King Jesus Orphanage
Visits to The King Jesus Orphanage will, no doubt, be a huge part of the memories from this trip. The photos that follow are of various Ghana'09 Team members at the orphanage.
Monday, July 20, 2009
Greetings from Colin and Devin...
Hi Everyone!
After another morning of eggs and toast, we traveled to Opportunity International to hear about the work that they are participating in. They took us around the building, showing us the different departments within the bank. (Important to note here that The Penny Project has partnered with Opportunity International in the interest of micro-lending opportunities for the HIV-positive and impoverished people of Kumasi.) Then later on they led us to a Group Meeting in the suburb of Breman in Kumasi. After an interesting time learning about the ins and outs of Opportunity International, we moved onto shopping for the orphanage. We collected gallons of cooking oil and hundreds of pounds of dry goods for the children, all of which was carried on to the top of our coach by one strong necked man.
Later today, we got to travel to the Ankaase Methodist Healing Hospital. We got to meet the administration of the building and three doctors who have traveled all the way from Indiana to work in the hospital. Finally, we headed back to the Royal Basin for another dinner full of rice and fish.
All is going well here and we have much more to come!
Colin and Devin
After another morning of eggs and toast, we traveled to Opportunity International to hear about the work that they are participating in. They took us around the building, showing us the different departments within the bank. (Important to note here that The Penny Project has partnered with Opportunity International in the interest of micro-lending opportunities for the HIV-positive and impoverished people of Kumasi.) Then later on they led us to a Group Meeting in the suburb of Breman in Kumasi. After an interesting time learning about the ins and outs of Opportunity International, we moved onto shopping for the orphanage. We collected gallons of cooking oil and hundreds of pounds of dry goods for the children, all of which was carried on to the top of our coach by one strong necked man.
Later today, we got to travel to the Ankaase Methodist Healing Hospital. We got to meet the administration of the building and three doctors who have traveled all the way from Indiana to work in the hospital. Finally, we headed back to the Royal Basin for another dinner full of rice and fish.
All is going well here and we have much more to come!
Colin and Devin
Saturday at the orphanage...
Saturday, July 17th was spent with the staff and children of King Jesus Orphanage. The Ghana'09 team spent the morning and afternoon visiting with these kids. Today (7/20/09) and in coming days, the team will shop for items needed at the orphanage using funds raised through The Penny Project. They will have at least two more times during this trip to revisit the kids and spend time with them. Craft projects and other items made the trip with our kids for these times. Watch for more blogs and photos from their time back at King Jesus Orphanage when they visit again on Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. Photos from Saturday follow here. One special fellow is Samuel, a very good friend of our own Reverend Jeff Nelson. He is the name inspiration behind the Nelson's own one-year-old son, Sam.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Sunday evening from Randy ...
We have been to the US Embassy, to a medium upscale private children’s school, the King Jesus Orphanage, and a Sunday morning Methodist Service. I will try to let the youth describe the experiences through their eyes, and not through mine. I will however, tell you that Ghana as a country is nothing like I expected. NOTHING. You’d think as an adult, and having talked to Heather and Dennis, I might have been more clued in. I was not.
First of all, there are the teeming masses of both Accra and Kumasi. The level of street activity is huge. In five hundred feet of bus travel, you might pass 50 businesses. Yes, fifty. Each unique business is operating out of a 10-foot wide open stand, painted and labeled. They have open fronts that lock up at night. Some are even converted sea containers with the front doors open for business, and each business with at least one proprietor working in the stand. There are shoppers at some, plus in that 500 feet there might be also be 100 people walking. One hundred, vibrantly walking. Walking places, shopping, carrying things. Realize that the roads are all two-ish lanes wide, and the stores are about 5-10 feet from the roadside. The people are squeamishly, at least to us, very close. And they walk at a pretty good clip. And remember, all goods and wares are transported by people carrying the things on their head. Not only on their head, but on their head with no hands. That includes bananas, piles of steel wool, cloth, bowls of yams, car parts. (Hey Detroit, here the parts go to the cars for repairs, out on the road, not the other way around!).
So, we have the storefronts, then the walkers and shoppers and human transporters. Then the street hawkers who come even closer to us, easily within a foot from the bus window, selling Mentos, cell phone cards, and loaves of bread. All from on their head. Rita bought bread and some snack thing thru the window as we continued rolling slowly along in traffic, and the hawker ran to finish the transaction. Somehow the others stepped out of the way and she was able to keep up as money and goods, plus change transferred thru the window. The level of commerce going on is amazing, and everything happens at the street.
Interestingly, the eyes watching us have an openness and a clarity that isn’t hostile or cynical or surprised. Many times, waves are exchanged back and forth, plus many smiles. They are busy but also happy to see us. Between Accra and Kumasi, we go thru “country” two lane roads with vegetation up to the shoulders of the roads. The land is very green and flowers, trees and bushes are prevalent. The mountains are off on both sides, small to medium sized. Cell phone towers are on all of them. I counted 9 towers on one. We pass a lone gas station -- a “Modex” brand gas, with four relatively modern looking pumps. There, in the middle of nowhere, one attendant is at the ready waiting in the shade. Gas and potty break (truly interesting, just ask your kids). Before much longer, we are passing thru another village, same street scene as I described above only in miniature for say two blocks. Roads are paved, but lane markinsg are somewhat a suggestion and not a mandatory thing. Traffic is unbelievably heavy considering what it seems to me is city to city with country and small towns in between. Big vehicles, trucks, buses, cars, and tro-tro’s. Tro-tro’s are the Ghana equivalent of a bus. A tro-tro is a Ford Ecoonline van, with seats added. There are actually all kinds of Ford Econoline equivalents some of which I have never heard of or heard of but never seen. These vans are about 10-20 years old, dented and beat up, but not yet fully rusted, and the seat modifications allow them to seat about 25 people. I’m not making that up, they are licensed and it says so on the side in the fine print. The windows are open and they are stuffed with people. The proticol here, when passing one up, is to beep the horn lightly, and drift over to the left as the tro-tro drifts right. Any oncoming traffic understands the program (apparently) and drifts to their right. With a little luck it all works out and we’ve passed. Some passes are more eventful than others. In the city traffic, it is even more exciting as you add in a zillion little taxis. Think old beat up Ford Focus size. All licensed, with little taxi signs on top, and the four corner body panels painted orange. Luckily our driver, Solomon, is outstanding. He’s a master at the roundabout. And he safely negotiates small turn-ins and dirt roads that I would never consider even trying, not even in a car. At one narrow right turn, a bus cut around us with a left as we went right, and messed up. He was within an inch of our flank, and things ground to a halt. The tro-tro behind him had followed left, the car behind him moved up, the car behind us wedged us in, and a Vespa was cutting thru it but got stopped by the bus. Dead stop gridlock. Solomon jumped out, as did several others, people came off the “sidewalk” to help. Discussion, pointing, gestures as to the plan. No one yelling at each other, just people deciding and giving instructions. You back up, you left, cut the wheel this way and back up 6 inches, now you go two feet, stop. Now you, good. Solomon hops back in and away we go.
Oh, I forgot a key element of excitement to this street stuff. The sewer system is, in most cases, between the stores and the road. So, in your mind, imagine a 10 inch wide by 2 foot deep concrete ditch in with the people and all those walkers. No stench actually, just trickling water, but not all sections are covered by grates. So, an errant move by a car, or a bus in particular, could bring it to a complete halt as the wheel would easily fit into the ditch. I hope I haven’t scared all the parents out of their minds, because we’re in safe hands with Solomon. But I did not expect all this kind of vibrant activity just from a bus ride. It was not just a bus ride, it was an experience in itself. More later.
Randy
First of all, there are the teeming masses of both Accra and Kumasi. The level of street activity is huge. In five hundred feet of bus travel, you might pass 50 businesses. Yes, fifty. Each unique business is operating out of a 10-foot wide open stand, painted and labeled. They have open fronts that lock up at night. Some are even converted sea containers with the front doors open for business, and each business with at least one proprietor working in the stand. There are shoppers at some, plus in that 500 feet there might be also be 100 people walking. One hundred, vibrantly walking. Walking places, shopping, carrying things. Realize that the roads are all two-ish lanes wide, and the stores are about 5-10 feet from the roadside. The people are squeamishly, at least to us, very close. And they walk at a pretty good clip. And remember, all goods and wares are transported by people carrying the things on their head. Not only on their head, but on their head with no hands. That includes bananas, piles of steel wool, cloth, bowls of yams, car parts. (Hey Detroit, here the parts go to the cars for repairs, out on the road, not the other way around!).
So, we have the storefronts, then the walkers and shoppers and human transporters. Then the street hawkers who come even closer to us, easily within a foot from the bus window, selling Mentos, cell phone cards, and loaves of bread. All from on their head. Rita bought bread and some snack thing thru the window as we continued rolling slowly along in traffic, and the hawker ran to finish the transaction. Somehow the others stepped out of the way and she was able to keep up as money and goods, plus change transferred thru the window. The level of commerce going on is amazing, and everything happens at the street.
Interestingly, the eyes watching us have an openness and a clarity that isn’t hostile or cynical or surprised. Many times, waves are exchanged back and forth, plus many smiles. They are busy but also happy to see us. Between Accra and Kumasi, we go thru “country” two lane roads with vegetation up to the shoulders of the roads. The land is very green and flowers, trees and bushes are prevalent. The mountains are off on both sides, small to medium sized. Cell phone towers are on all of them. I counted 9 towers on one. We pass a lone gas station -- a “Modex” brand gas, with four relatively modern looking pumps. There, in the middle of nowhere, one attendant is at the ready waiting in the shade. Gas and potty break (truly interesting, just ask your kids). Before much longer, we are passing thru another village, same street scene as I described above only in miniature for say two blocks. Roads are paved, but lane markinsg are somewhat a suggestion and not a mandatory thing. Traffic is unbelievably heavy considering what it seems to me is city to city with country and small towns in between. Big vehicles, trucks, buses, cars, and tro-tro’s. Tro-tro’s are the Ghana equivalent of a bus. A tro-tro is a Ford Ecoonline van, with seats added. There are actually all kinds of Ford Econoline equivalents some of which I have never heard of or heard of but never seen. These vans are about 10-20 years old, dented and beat up, but not yet fully rusted, and the seat modifications allow them to seat about 25 people. I’m not making that up, they are licensed and it says so on the side in the fine print. The windows are open and they are stuffed with people. The proticol here, when passing one up, is to beep the horn lightly, and drift over to the left as the tro-tro drifts right. Any oncoming traffic understands the program (apparently) and drifts to their right. With a little luck it all works out and we’ve passed. Some passes are more eventful than others. In the city traffic, it is even more exciting as you add in a zillion little taxis. Think old beat up Ford Focus size. All licensed, with little taxi signs on top, and the four corner body panels painted orange. Luckily our driver, Solomon, is outstanding. He’s a master at the roundabout. And he safely negotiates small turn-ins and dirt roads that I would never consider even trying, not even in a car. At one narrow right turn, a bus cut around us with a left as we went right, and messed up. He was within an inch of our flank, and things ground to a halt. The tro-tro behind him had followed left, the car behind him moved up, the car behind us wedged us in, and a Vespa was cutting thru it but got stopped by the bus. Dead stop gridlock. Solomon jumped out, as did several others, people came off the “sidewalk” to help. Discussion, pointing, gestures as to the plan. No one yelling at each other, just people deciding and giving instructions. You back up, you left, cut the wheel this way and back up 6 inches, now you go two feet, stop. Now you, good. Solomon hops back in and away we go.
Oh, I forgot a key element of excitement to this street stuff. The sewer system is, in most cases, between the stores and the road. So, in your mind, imagine a 10 inch wide by 2 foot deep concrete ditch in with the people and all those walkers. No stench actually, just trickling water, but not all sections are covered by grates. So, an errant move by a car, or a bus in particular, could bring it to a complete halt as the wheel would easily fit into the ditch. I hope I haven’t scared all the parents out of their minds, because we’re in safe hands with Solomon. But I did not expect all this kind of vibrant activity just from a bus ride. It was not just a bus ride, it was an experience in itself. More later.
Randy
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